Saturday, April 23, 2016

TRAVELING IN GREECE April 2016 with Granddaughters Laura, 15, and Mollie, 13.  

Our week long travels in Greece took us from Athens west across the Corinth Canal on to the Peloponnese to Corinth, Mycenae, Epidaurus, Nafplion and Olympia (home of the 1st Olympic Games in 776 BC); crossing the suspension bridge from Patras to the mainland, we travel east along the gulf of Corinth to Delphi; north to Meteora (see Kalambaka on map) and south  returning to Athens. We have planned ample time to wander in Athens, seeing historical sights, eating Greek food... and ice cream!

map of greece mainland peloponnese

Saturday, April 23... arrival Athens, Greece

Departed JFK Friday April 22, flew overnight and arrived Saturday, April 23, 10:15 am in Athens 'new' airport - built in 2001.  With our carry on bags, easy exit through Customs, Immigration and out to meet our Guide/Driver, Spiros of 'Georges Taxi'.  Spiros took the 'very' long way to the Hotel giving us a tour of many neighborhoods, the beautiful areas along the Aegean Sea, in the direction of Sounio, by the old airport which is now housing more than 10,000 refugees, by the fruit market and then to the area below the Acropolis to our Hotel, the O&B Boutique Hotel.

The  O&B Hotel, in the historic center of Athens, near Monastiraki Square and below the Acropolis and Parthenon, a 5 minute walk to the  Ancient Agora.  
               
Checked into Hotel ~ 12:30 pm, settled into our room  (3 single beds plus large balcony with view of Acropolis); room very modern, compact and comfortable. We were greeted warmly by staff with hors d'oeuvres and drinks brought to room.  Orange juice for girls and a shot of Greek liquor for me!  Laura enjoyed her first olive :-)  


A quick change of clothes and we walked in area of Monastiraki Square through flea market and many restaurants.  We chose 'Ciccus' - just because -  and enjoyed our first greek meal!  After lunch we strolled the area - trying to stay awake!  Mollie bought a Naf Naf shirt in the Concept Store, slightly used and very cute.


Back to Hotel by 4pm having decided to 'chill' and forego dinner. A wonderful shower - with views to the Parthenon atop the Acropolis.

It is now 5:40pm and we are struggling to stay awake! 9 hours time difference from CO; 7 hours from NY.  ... and beds very comfortable.

Map of Athens
We are located just north of the Ancient Agora (5 inure walk) and west of the Flea Market.

       
Sunday, April 24   EXPLORING ATHENS... 'formal' Half Day tour that extended to 6 hours...
Spiros collected us at 10:15 am for our explorations of Athens starting with the Changing of the Guards in front of the Parliament building (in Syntagma Square); a weekly ceremony with music and parade... much pomp and circumstance and lots of people! Give the video a try...
       





 On to the Acropolis, site of the Parthenon, many Temples and the Theater of Herodes Atticus (built in AD161, currently used for outdoor concerts).  





PARTHENON ---  The chief temple of the goddess Athena built on the Acropolis at Athens in the middle of the 5th c. BC; an excellent example of Doric architecture.



View of Athens from the Acropolis. Mount Lykavittos is in background on right, with Mosque at top...  we climbed up to the Mosque, and are still smiling!

 

View of Athens and surrounding mountains from Lykavittos Hill.... oval sand in background is a marble quarry.



Laura and Mollie at the Temple of Zeus... of the original 104 Corinthian columns, only 15 remain.  Temple built in 2nd c. BC.




View of Acropolis from Temple of Zeus... apparent that it was built as a fortress.



The Olympic Stadium is in Athens 26 miles from Marathon Harbor, is named for the first marathon runner Spyros Louis. Built with hope that the 1996 Summer Olympic games would be awarded to Greece; however, games were given to Atlanta, GA. The stadium was used during the 2004 Olympic Games for various athletic events and football finals.  On April 26, the flame for the 2016 Summer Olympics in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil will pass through here on its journey to Rio!


   

Lunch of traditional Greek food at family-owned restaurant... veal with zucchini, vegetable stew, lasagna and chicken roulade with potatoes.  All fresh and tasty!
Returned to Hotel at 4 pm... a long and  successful day of touring.  After a brief respite, we ventured out to find ice cream!
Returning to hotel just after 6pm, we are done for the day.  Now to relax, shower ... chill, read and write blog. Skipping dinner since only Laura is hungry and she can tap into the food supply she brought along...

Our transportation is a Mercedes yellow taxi! Very comfortable for 3 of us and our Guide/Driver.




Spectacular view of Parthenon from O&B Hotel balcony...


Monday April 25...  Athens to OLYMPIA via Ancient Corinth, Mycenae, Epidaurus and Nafplio   


We begin our 4 day tour of Classical Greece today; we are traveling back in time to 8th c. BC in Corinth and will move forward to the 15th. - 18th centuries in Meteora.

A big travel day... departed hotel at 9:00 am and arrived Olympia at 7:15 pm with time spent in many historic sites en route. 
We are heading to Olympia on the west side of the Peloponnese - a major 'island' that is part of mainland Greece.  From Athens, we crossed a bridge over the Corinth canal that separates the Aegean Sea from the Gulf of Corinth. Prior to construction of the Corinth Canal in 1893, Peloponnese was a peninsula. Goal was to permit ships to travel between the Aegean and Ionian Seas without having to circumnavigate Peloponnese.

Ancient Corinth


While the site of the ancient city of Corinth was occupied from the Neolithic period to the Middle Ages, it was at its economic and artistic height in the 8th - 7th c, BC.  Destroyed by the Romans in 146 BC, it was resettled by Julius Caesar in 44 BC and acheived new prosperity.

Temple of Apollo
    

      


MYCENAE

Mycenae was a period and a civilisation tat evolved through the entire Greek world between the 16th and 12th c. BC and spread to all know sites in the Mediterranean basin.  The Mycenaean acropolis dominated the surrounding area as a unique place to control communications in all directions ... to the Peloponnese and to mainland Greece.The site housed the royal family and their people.  Excavations began in 1874 and continue today... demonstrating that the site had been inhabited as early as 3000 BC.


                       

  







     

     

Epidaurus... 


"Among the greatest monuments of Greek Antiquity, the famous theatre at the Asklepieion of Epidaurus, the finest and most renowned of its kind, combines perfect acoustics with elegance and symmetrical proportions,..."  

"Among all the ancient theatres, Epidaurus theatre is the most beautiful and best preserved. Destined for the fun of the patients of Asklipieio, it had a capacity of 13,000 spectators...."

As with all sites from ancient Greece, there is a story (myth) surrounding the Epidaurus and 
Asclepius ...

"The myth about the birth of Asklepios at Epidaurus is attributed to Hesiodos. Before him, it was believed that Asclepius was the son of Apollo and Coronis of Thessaly and Hermes stole Asclepius fetus, while it was going to burn. According to the first myth Asclepius was born in Epidaurus and was the son Apollo and Arsinoe, daughter of the king of the Messinian. At Epidaurus, this version became quite common due to the reputation of the shrine. Asclepius was worshiped as a hero at the beginning and not as a god and his cult had many heroic figures. This is evidenced by the older ruins, which are dominated by the labyrinth, an underground building, the centre of which was reachable, only by passing through all its corridors. The labyrinth was used for the sacrifices made to God. But just from the construction, we conclude that the sacrifices were secret, identical with those that were for the dead. So Asclepius was considered to be mortal and not God. His cult was by always accompanied by the serpent. The heroic element which characterized the worship of Asclepius, over time, became a religion and filled the city with splendid Asclepius monuments in the early fourth century. Among these, magnificent temple was constructed, where the God Asclepius statue (made of gold and ivory) was placed."





Best seats in the house at the Epidaurus Theater -- first row with back
  

NAFPLIO... and lunch at Alalum



"One of the most beautiful towns in the area of Argolis (in eastern Peloponnese) as well as one of the most romantic cities all over Greece, Nafplio was the first capital of the newly born Greek state between 1823 and 1834. 

According to mythology, the town was founded by Náfplios, the son of god Poseidon and the daughter of Danaus (Danaida) Anymone. The town’s history traces back to the prehistoric era when soldiers from here participated in the Argonautic expedition and the Trojan War alike. The town declined during the Roman times and flourished again during the Byzantine times. Frankish, Venetian and Turkish conquerors left their mark in the town and strongly influenced its culture, architecture and traditions during the centuries. Ancient walls, medieval castles, monuments and statues, Ottoman fountains and Venetian or neoclassical buildings mesmerize the visitor with their unique architecture and beauty..."

Laura and Sue had salad and Seafood
while Mollie had beef patty...
...and, Mollie bought sunglasses
      






















Palamidi, Venetian fortress on hill top (acropolis!) above Nafplio... overlooking harbor.

  








Tuesday, April 26 ANCIENT OLYMPIA, in Peloponnese,  to Delphi via Nafpaxto for lunch

Morning spent exploring Olympia, home to the Olympic Games which began in 776 BC to honor Zeus and continued every 4 year for almost 300 times until 393 AD when the Christian Emperor Theodosius I stopped them as 'pagan'.  The games were restarted in 1896 and continue every 4 years.  Summer 2016 in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.



Archaeological Site of Olympia

The site of Olympia, in a valley in the Peloponnesus, has been inhabited since prehistoric times. In the 10th century B.C., Olympia became a centre for the worship of Zeus. The Altis – the sanctuary to the gods – has one of the highest concentrations of masterpieces from the ancient Greek world. In addition to temples, there are the remains of all the sports structures erected for the Olympic Games, which were held in Olympia every four years beginning in 776 B.C. 
 A UNESCO World Heritage Site...
We visited the archeological site then the Museum.


Entering the Stadium...  and, Laura running in the Stadium!

              


The site today...





A selfie in front of the Stadium...  



















The Archeological Museum of Olympia...

             

 
































Colored remnants from Temple of Zeus...  Emperor Hadrian, 2nd c. AD ...  in ancient times, all marble had been painted.

  





















Marble Corinthian Capital from 2nd c. AD      

From Olympia, we had a several hour drive to Delphi with several stops. Crossing from Peloponnese to Central Greece mainland, we crossed a spectacular suspension bridge over the Gulf Of Corinth.  Driving along the Gulf, on a windy day, sky is clear and white caps on water...  

            



The Castle of Nafpaxtos, above the Gulf of Corinth, an excellent example of fortress architecture, was constructed over many periods from ancient Greece to the Ottoman Empire, Turkish dominance.




Suspension bridge connecting Peloponnese (on left) to mainland and separating the Gulf of Corinth from the Ionian Sea.

All day we are driving east along the Gulf of Corinth.



Delicious lunch in restaurant in the port of Nafpaxtos, Evo Oinos... grilled shrimp, mussels and shrimp and dessert 'on the house'!  Restaurant owner, while Greek, was born in Canada.
   


On July 24, 2016, the NY Times Travel Section had a comprehensive article about Greek's Olympic Games...

http://www.nytimes.com/2016/07/24/travel/greece-olympics-delphi-olympia.html?em_pos=large&emc=edit_tl_20160722&nl=travel-dispatch&nlid=33570895&ref=headline&te=1&_r=1
Wednesday, April 27  DELPHI to Meteora in Central Greece

DELPHI

...  Delphi was an important ancient Greek religious sanctuary sacred to the god Apollo. Located on Mt. Parnassus near the Gulf of Corinth, the sanctuary was home to the famous oracle of Apollo which gave cryptic predictions and guidance to both city-states and individuals.

Our Delphi experience started in the museum... awesome statues and components of Temples.

Statue of an old man, presumed to be a philosopher from his dress, has individualized features.

The frieze is from  a tholos -a circular building.

    
  

On left, marble sculpture from the Temple of Apollo, represents a winged Nike (Victory) in an posture suggesting that the figure is running... typical of archaic sculpture early 6th c, BC.  On right, young man, Antinoos, reported to be companion of Emperor... discovered in 1894. 

Bronze statue of Charioteer...   some parts of horses and the chariot were also exhibited.

   



On ceramic bowl, Apollo is depicted crowned with myrtle leaves, playing a lyre with his left hand and pouring wine with his right hand...  5th c. BC.





Model of the Temple of Apollo  ...



And, the Archeological site of Delphi...

  

         

 

Leaving Delphi, we took a short detour to visit the Parnassus Ski Center.  Typically open December through April, this winter was so warm, it only operated 4 weeks. Altitude at top of mountain is 2260 m (7400 ft), one of highest mountains in Greece.













We turn north to Meteora... a most important complex of Eastern Orthodox monasteries in Greece...UNESCO characterizes these monasteries as a "unique phenomenon of cultural heritage". These monasteries were built during the 15th - 17th centuries. Hermits are reported to have lived in caves in these mountains since the 11th c.




Arriving before 5pm, we had the opportunity to visit a Nunnery, St. Stephens sitting atop a mountain.  There are 6 remaining monasteries all built on the top of sandstone pillars.

The Holy Monastery of St. Stephen. It is one of the most attainable as we don't have to cope with innumerable stairs to reach it. The small single-nave church of St. Stephen was built in the middle of 16th and decorated in 1545 or a little later. The 'Katholikon', honoured to St. Charalambos, was built in the Athonite type, in 1798. The old refectory of the convent is used as a museum nowadays.

     

In each monastery we visited, we had to wear a 'skirt' over our pants, out of respect for the sanctity of these places.





Overnight at Hotel Meteoritis in Kastraki... family owned and operated.   We had 2 rooms since rooms were small and inadequate beds.  Two bathrooms for 3 women.  Worked out really well! 


Tonight we go to dinner with Spiros, our Guide/ Driver, to Pannelini, a family owned/operated restaurant in Kalambaka - excellent meal. Laura and I had Moussaka and salad, while Mollie had Spaghetti Carbonara.  Girls had fresh squeezed orange juice and I had wine.


Most days we have a big breakfast around 8 am and a big lunch mid afternoon. By the time we get to hotel and shower, our day has come to an end and we skip dinner.. a few hours to 'chill', a good night's sleep and we are off again :-)

  
Thursday, April 28  METEORA ... return to ATHENS

Continuing our tour of monasteries and enjoying the surrounding 
environment, our first stop is the "Megalo Monastery"


 "...The Holy Monastery of Great Meteoron. It is the biggest of the Meteorite monasteries. The church 'Katholikon', honoured to the 'Transfiguration' was erected in the middle of 14th c. and 1387/88 and decorated in 1483 and 1552. The old monastery is used as a museum.




We climbed up many steps to get into monastery...  each day we are walking on average 10,000 steps. Monks and Nuns travel by 'cable car'.
 



Our third (and final) monastery, St,.Nicholas is very small but requires a serious climb of more than 850 steps to reach the top and, of course, to descend the 850 steps.  Many icons and frescoes decorate these buildings.

 ... The Holy Monastery of St. Nicholas Anapausas. It is the first to meet on our way from Kastraki to Meteora. The 'Katholikon' dedicated to St. Nicholas, is a single - nave church with small dome, built in the beginning of 16th c. It was decorated by the Cretan painter Theophanis Strelitzas or Bathas, in 1527.

                    



                


By noon we began our return drive to Athens.. with stop for lunch.

Lunch at Faro by the sea at port in Atalanti... lovely setting and delicious food! Even the girls were served wine -- a small amount.  Calamari was fresh and very lightly breaded and fried... and, have I mentioned how good the bread is here in Greece? Makes it hard to control carb input when excellent, freshly baked bread is served with every meal.. along with olive oil and olives :-) We were served dessert - on the house - of a small cake made of semolina with a honey syrup.  

On the road at 3:30pm, we continue our drive to Athens, arriving 5pm at O&B Boutique Hotel - our home away from home!  This time our room is a "Grand Suite" with larger room, large bathroom, but small balcony and poor view. We definitely were spoiled with first room with Parthenon view :-)

Friday, April 29 -- "Free" Day in Athens

No alarm to set for this morning since we are on our own time!  More an attitude than a reality since we were up by 7:30 am and breakfast about 8 am.  The breakfast buffet was excellent... how nice to have such a variety without having to prepare it oneself!

Out the door at 10 am heading for the Acropolis Museum, the Ancient Agora (marketplace) and Plaka (many small shops and cafes) and lunch.  This would take us in a a 5+ mile circle -- our biggest walking day!  It is Good Friday in Greece, Sunday is Easter, so Museum and Agora open at noon. We adjusted our plan and headed for Plaka.  Not too much to buy... but olive oil-based skin care products are nice.  Stopped in cafe for 'coffee' and croissants, enjoying the lack of schedule!

Acropolis Museum

The museum is within 1000 feet of the Acropolis; the top floor Parthenon-gallery is the same size and layout as the Parthenon with remnants of sculptures (some reconstructions) in their proper place. The entire floor is enclosed in glass and gives a 360 degree view of Athens. Built in 2009, the museum depicts life in the Athenian Acropolis. Architecture by Bernard Tschumi et. al. is exceptional...






















The entire structure is built on pillars over ruins which are visible under the entrance and lobby. 

  





Walking to the Agora...  and resting along the way.
      

Ancient Agora...
The Agora of Athens was the center of the ancient city: a large, open square where the citizens could assemble for a wide variety of purposes. On any given day the space might be used as a market, or for an election, a dramatic performance, a religious procession, military drill, or athletic competition. Here administrative, political, judicial, commercial, social, cultural, and religious activities all found a place together in the heart of Athens, and the square was surrounded by the public buildings necessary to run the Athenian government.


  

 



After 4 hours of roaming and exploring, we are ready for lunch... since we can not leave Greece without having Gyros, this is our choice!

By lat afternoon, we are back in our comfortable room at the O&B Hotel 'chilling' ... except for a walk to an ATM in Monastiraki Square so I can make final payments...

Saturday, April 30 -- CRUISE
Since our time in Greece has focussed on history (ancient history), the geography and topography of the mainland, we have opted to spend a day on the water cruising to islands i the Saronic gulf close to Athens.  We are aboard the Kassandra Delfinous cruising to three islands: Hydra, Poros and Aegina... with >100 other tourists. Weather is perfect!

Leaving the city - and war ships - behind, we head into the Aegean Sea.

     


After sailing for 1.5 hours, we arrive at Hydra... and take a walking tour. No wheeled vehicles are permitted on the island; everyone walks or rides donkeys or horses.


Bougainvillea in full bloom...
Tomorrow is Easter; thus, braided breads with red egg fill this pastry shop
             

                    
   Icon sewn with gold thread; Greeks very proud of their icons in churches and monasteries. 

No food is grown on Hydra; all food shipped from mainland. 
                            
On to POROS.. small island; as with other islands and most of Greece, very hilly.
                                                                                                 






Lunch on board was a buffet of salads, chicken, fish, rice and potatoes.... food okay. Drinks cost extra - a bit frustrating since this was a fairly expensive day.  Perhaps we are spoiled having eaten at so many family - owned restaurants. Tables were called to buffet in sequence to control the crowds... plenty of food and quite civilized!

Last island is Aegina, largest of the three - we will take a bus tour to visit the Temple of Athena and a Byzantine Monastery... and have pistachio ice cream! Aegina has groves of pistachio trees...  


       

 

Our weather this week has been wonderful... sunny and cool; Spring!

 

Sunday, May 1, 2016 ... Travel Athens to New York ... home for Mollie and Laura

Our flight departs Athens at 12:30 pm so we are picked up at O&B Hotel at 10 am... our last ride in a Georges Taxi. Kostas is our driver... we have an excellent discussion of the causes of Greece's economic problems and the related challenges to overcome the country's debt which is twice its GDP. More thoughts on economy, migrants... as I digest this great trip. Loved traveling with my granddaughters...  we learned a lot about Greece and each other.

Where shall we go next?


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